Frijoles Refritos (Refried Beans)

Method

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1. 1Soak the beans overnight in plenty of water, then drain and rinse. (If using canned beans, skip to step 3.)
2. 2Put the beans in a pot with half the onion, the whole garlic clove and the bay leaf, and cover with water by about 8 cm. Bring to a boil, then simmer partly covered for about 1 1/2 hours, until the beans crush easily between your fingers; add the salt in the last 15 minutes.
3. 3Drain the beans, saving at least 240 ml (1 cup) of the cooking liquid. Discard the onion half and the bay leaf.
4. 4Heat the fat in a wide, deep pan. Cook the chopped onion and chile over medium heat for 5-6 minutes until soft and golden at the edges, then add the garlic and cumin for 1 minute more.
5. 5Add the beans and 120 ml of the cooking liquid. Mash with a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon until as smooth as you like.
6. 6Cook over medium-low heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring often. The beans should be a creamy purée that slowly drops off the spoon; loosen with more liquid if they get too thick.
7. 7Taste for salt and top with crumbled cheese. Serve hot with tacos, tostadas or rice.