Spaghetti Carbonara

Method

Tap a step when it's done.

1. 1Bring 4 litres of water to the boil in a large pot and add the salt. Meanwhile, cut the meat into batons about 1 cm thick; if using pastırma, scrape off the spice coating first.
2. 2In a bowl, beat the yolks, whole egg, three-quarters of the cheese and the pepper with a fork into a thick, creamy paste.
3. 3Put the guanciale in a cold, wide frying pan and cook over medium heat for 8-10 minutes, until the fat has rendered and the edges are crisp. If using a lean substitute, add the olive oil and fry for just 3-4 minutes until lightly crisp.
4. 4Cook the spaghetti until al dente, about 1 minute less than the packet time. Scoop out a mug (about 250 ml) of pasta water before draining.
5. 5Turn off the heat under the frying pan. Drain the pasta into the pan, toss it in the fat for 30 seconds, then take the pan off the stove and let it cool for about a minute; a pan that's too hot will scramble the eggs.
6. 6Loosen the egg mixture with 2-3 tbsp of pasta water and pour it over the spaghetti. Toss quickly and constantly with tongs until the sauce thickens and coats every strand in a glossy, silky layer.
7. 7If the sauce looks too thick, add pasta water a spoonful at a time until it flows. Serve immediately with the remaining cheese and another grind of pepper.