Cacio e Pepe

Method

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1. 1Grate the cheese on the finest side of the grater so it is almost powdery, and put it in a bowl. Crush the peppercorns coarsely in a mortar; pre-ground pepper won't give the same flavour.
2. 2Bring the water to a boil in a wide pot and salt it lightly, since Pecorino is already salty. Cook the pasta for 2 minutes less than the packet says, so it is still firm.
3. 3While it cooks, toast the pepper in a dry wide pan for about 1 minute until fragrant. Add a ladle of pasta water and turn the heat down.
4. 4Add 3-4 tbsp of warm (not boiling) pasta water to the cheese and whisk quickly with a fork into a smooth, thick paste. Water that is too hot will make the cheese clump.
5. 5Lift the pasta with tongs straight into the pepper pan and toss for 1-2 minutes to finish cooking, adding a splash more pasta water if needed.
6. 6Take the pan off the heat, wait 30 seconds, then add the cheese paste and toss vigorously until the sauce coats the pasta in a silky layer. If it gets too thick, loosen with a spoonful of pasta water.
7. 7Serve immediately with a little extra Pecorino and pepper on top; this sauce does not like to wait.