How to Cook Eggs Perfectly: From Boiled to Omelette

The egg is the humblest ingredient in the kitchen, and one of the best teachers. Because eggs are so sensitive to heat, learning to cook them well also teaches you how to control your stove. In this lesson we go through the breakfast classics one by one.

Before you start

• If you can, take eggs out of the fridge 15-20 minutes before cooking. Room-temperature eggs crack less when boiled and cook more evenly.
• The times below are for medium eggs. For large eggs, add about 30 seconds to 1 minute.
• Very fresh eggs are hard to peel after boiling. Eggs that are a few days old are better for boiling.

Boiled eggs: timings by doneness

The most reliable method is to lower eggs into already boiling water, so you control the timing exactly. Bring the water to a boil, reduce the heat slightly so it bubbles gently, and lower the eggs in with a spoon. Start timing now:

• 5-6 minutes: Soft-boiled. White set, yolk completely runny. Perfect in an egg cup with toast soldiers.
• 7-8 minutes: Jammy. The yolk's edges are set and the centre is thick and creamy. Great for salads and ramen.
• 9-10 minutes: Firm but moist. Yolk fully cooked but still bright yellow.
• 11-12 minutes: Hard-boiled. For picnics, egg salad and devilled eggs.

When the time is up, move the eggs straight into iced or very cold water for a few minutes. This stops the cooking and makes peeling easier. A greenish ring around the yolk means the egg was overcooked; it's harmless, but a cold-water bath prevents it.

Fried eggs

The star of a Turkish breakfast is "sahanda yumurta", eggs fried in butter in a small two-handled pan. Heat the pan over medium-low heat and melt a knob of butter. When it starts to foam, crack in the eggs. Don't rush: on gentle heat the white sets slowly while the yolk stays runny. If the top of the white is slow to set, cover the pan for a minute. Sprinkle salt on the white rather than the yolk, where it can leave pale spots. A pinch of chilli flakes or a few slices of spicy sausage are lovely on top.

Scrambled eggs

There are two schools. For creamy, French-style eggs, whisk the eggs with a pinch of salt, pour into a buttered pan over low heat and stir slowly and constantly with a silicone spatula. Take them off the heat while they're still soft and slightly wet; they'll keep cooking in their own heat on the way to the plate. For larger, fluffier curds American-style, use medium heat and stir less often. Either way, the most common mistake is overcooking until dry.

Poached eggs

Eggs cooked out of their shells in water can seem intimidating at first, but a few tricks make them easy:

1. Use fresh eggs. A fresh egg's white is firmer and holds together.
2. Crack the egg into a fine sieve first; the watery part of the white drains away, leaving a neat egg.
3. Bring water in a deep pan to a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil. Add a tablespoon of vinegar if you like.
4. Tip the egg from a small bowl gently into the water.
5. Cook for 3-4 minutes, until the white is set and the yolk soft. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

In Turkish cooking this becomes çılbır: poached eggs on garlicky yoghurt, drizzled with butter sizzling with chilli flakes.

Omelette

For a classic omelette, whisk 2-3 eggs well with a pinch of salt. Heat a non-stick pan over medium heat and melt some butter. Pour in the eggs and, for the first few seconds, push the edges towards the centre with a spatula so the raw egg flows into the gaps. When the bottom is set but the top is still slightly wet, scatter your filling (cheese, mushrooms, herbs) over one half, fold the omelette and slide it onto a plate. Cook fillings in advance; the juices from raw vegetables make an omelette watery.

Common mistakes

• Too much heat: Eggs turn rubbery on high heat. Most egg dishes love medium or low heat.
• A cold pan or too little fat: The most common cause of sticking.
• Taking them off too late: Eggs keep cooking after they leave the heat. Taking them off a little early is usually how you hit the perfect point.

The best way to make friends with eggs is to practise. They're cheap, quick and teach you something every time. Try a different method one morning this week!