Choosing Pots and Pans: Cast Iron, Stainless, Non-Stick and Copper

The cookware aisle is dazzling: granite, ceramic, titanium, multi-ply steel, cast iron, copper, each claiming to be the best. In reality every material has strengths and weaknesses, and a good kitchen is built not from one material but from the right mix.

Cast iron

Heavy, thick and excellent at holding heat. Once hot, it barely drops in temperature even when cold meat goes in.

• Ideal for: Searing meat, köfte, eggs with sucuk, cornbread and anything that goes into the oven. Enamelled cast-iron pots are superb for stews and slow-cooked meat.
• Weaknesses: Heavy and slow to heat. Bare cast iron does not like long contact with acidic food such as tomato sauce or sour dishes.
• Care: Wash bare cast iron with hot water and a soft brush, dry it on the hob straight away and rub in a very thin film of oil. No dishwasher, no soaking. Over time that oil builds a natural non-stick layer known as seasoning.

Stainless steel

The sturdy workhorse of the kitchen. It does not react with acid, does not rust, goes in the dishwasher and lasts a lifetime.

• Ideal for: Soups, boiling, pilaf, sauces, pasta and vegetable dishes. A heavy-based stainless pan is also brilliant for searing and pan sauces; the browned bits left in the pan are the base of your sauce.
• Weaknesses: Steel alone conducts heat poorly. Choose models with an aluminium or copper core in the base or body (an encapsulated base or multi-ply construction). Cheap, thin steel scorches food in one spot.
• Avoiding sticking: Heat the pan well first, then add the oil, and add the food once the oil shimmers. Meat releases on its own once browned.
• Care: For burnt-on marks, simmer a little water and bicarbonate of soda in the pan, then scrub.

Non-stick

Pans coated with PTFE (often known as Teflon) or ceramic.

• Ideal for: Eggs, omelettes, crêpes, gözleme, fish and anything cooked with little fat. A beginner's best friend.
• Weaknesses: It dislikes very high heat; heating an empty pan on high damages the coating. Coatings wear and need replacing every few years. Not suited to searing.
• Care: No metal spoons, forks or scourers; use silicone or wood. Do not plunge a hot pan into cold water, as the coating can crack. Wash by hand with a soft sponge. Replace any pan whose coating is flaking or peeling.

Copper

One of the best heat conductors there is. It heats and cools very quickly, giving precise control.

• Ideal for: Sauces, sugar work and jams. In Turkish kitchens, copper cezves and tin-lined copper pans and pots are part of a long tradition.
• Weaknesses: Expensive and high-maintenance. Copper should not touch acidic food directly, so it is lined with tin or stainless steel. Tin linings wear and need re-tinning.
• Care: Polish the outside with lemon and salt or a dedicated cleaner. Never scour a tin lining.

A quick note on aluminium and enamel

Thin, uncoated aluminium pots are cheap, light and conduct heat well, but they dent easily and can react with acidic food. Enamelled steel pots are affordable and easy to clean, but the enamel can chip if knocked.

What a beginner actually needs

Instead of a big set, start with these four:

1. A 24-28 cm non-stick frying pan: Eggs, omelettes, fish, everyday jobs.
2. A 26-28 cm heavy stainless or cast-iron pan: Meat, chicken, köfte, frying, searing.
3. A 3-4 litre stainless pot with an encapsulated base and a lid: Pilaf, soups, vegetable dishes.
4. A 5-6 litre large pot: Pasta, boiling, big family meals.

Over time you can add an enamelled cast-iron casserole, a small saucepan and a pressure cooker.

What to check when buying

• Does it suit your hob? Induction needs a magnetic base; test it with a magnet.
• Is the base thick? Weigh it in your hand; heft is usually a sign of quality.
• Is the handle solid and ovenproof? Riveted metal handles last longer and let the pan go into the oven.
• Does the lid fit? A pot lid should sit snugly.

Final word

An expensive set will not make you a great cook, but a thin, cheap pan will frustrate even a good one. Invest in a few well-chosen pieces and look after them; a well-kept cast-iron pan can outlive you and go to your grandchildren.